Just Grapes Wine Blog

By Brett Ashley McKenzie

Nothing seems to make certain wine drinkers cringe like the words “pink wine.” For some, it conjures memories of sickly sweet concotions consumed at college cook outs. For others, “pink wine” is synonymous with “white zinfandel” (which isn’t a bad thing for white zin lovers).

Just like “all Riesling is sweet” is a myth (which Just Grapes debunked at its Riesling 101 class in early June), “all pink wine is sweet and fruity” is also a myth. Let’s take a closer look.

For starters, lets stop calling it “pink wine.” Rosé (pronounced “rose-ay”) is the proper term for that wine occupying the vast territory between whites and reds. We know white wine is “white” because it has been made without the grapes’ skin. Red wine is red because the skins (which is where most of the tannins are) are left on. Rosés are a little of both: the skins are allowed to remain on the grape during the crushing process, and then removed, typically within a few days. Brief contact with the colorful skins is what gives Rosé its hue. Rosés can be numerous shades, from pale orange to salmon pink to downright purplish. They also vary in sugar and texture.

This summer, drink pink!

Just Grapes has brought in three brand new Rosés this summer: the flavorful, exotic 2008 Domaine Skouras “Zoe” from Greece; the intriguing 90% Grenache/10% Mourvedre 2007 Verdad from California; and the delightful and dry 2007 Reverdy Sancerre. We also acquired a new vintage of the popular Bon Bon, which is the sweetest of our Rosés but certainly not too sweet.

In last week’s “Wine & Food for the Home Chef” course, offer by Just Grapes at the Calphalon Culinary Center, the Greek “Zoe” Rosé was among six food-friendly wines to be paired with dishes such as shrimp, Moroccan-style lamb, and pork tenderloin. Class members were surprised at how versatile the “pink wine” was, and many felt it was the wine that paired most pleasantly with every single dish. Many left the class purchasing a bottle or two, and have since stopped in to examine our other Rosés (we usually feature one or two on our tasting bar).

As always, the best wine for you is the wine you love best. But if you give Rosé a shot, you may find your new summer sipper.

by Brett Ashley McKenzie

Just Grapes participated in yesterday’s “Market Mystery Summer Soiree” at the Calphalon Culinary Center, where six renowned Chicago chefs and their teams were given mystery protein ingredients, then let loose to shop at the Green City Market before assembling three dishes a piece to be presented to hungry guests.

Scallops in the first round were spectacular with Cono Sur Sauv Blanc.

Jacqueline from Heritage poured six of Just Grapes’ favorite food-friendly wines, which were enjoyed alongside dishes made with foie gras, baby octopus, and buttered croissant bread pudding.

The Chilean 2008 Cono Sur, Sauvignon Blanc Jacqueline poured was a perfect match for several first round dishes. Chef Michael Taus of Duchamp and Zealous prepared a perfectly-seared scallop with heirloom tomato gazpacho, and Chef Giuseppe Tentori served a delicately poached halibut over a puree of English garden peas. Both dishes required a wine that wouldn’t overwhelm the subtle flavors, such as the inherent sweetness of the scallops or the flakiness of the fish.

A bolder preparation of halibut across the room came from Chef Bill Kim of Urban Belly, who used the Asian flair he is so famous for to add spice and complexity to his seared fish. For this dish, the 2007 Errazuriz, Chardonnay, Aconcagua, Chile was a fantastic match. The creamy texture of the wine cooled a little of the fire in the flavorful dish, nicely complimenting the preparation of the fish.

Chef Roger Herring of Socca was the one contestant to use wine, as a marinade, in his preparation of braised and grilled baby octopus served atop a fresh salad.

In the second round, Chef Taus served a piece of lamb atop a phyllo dough root vegetable pie. While lamb often calls for a richer red, such as a Zinfandel, the presentation and flavors struck me as distinctly Mediterranean, and I tried the dish with our 2008 Domaine Skouras “Zoe.” Rose, Greece. It was a heavenly pairing. The flavorful dry rose nicely complimented the flaky pastry, tender lamb, and zesty pie filling.

The Delta Vineyard Pinot Noir from Marlborough, New Zealand, was exceptional with Chef Tentori’s second course dish: pork tenderloin with homemade mustard and bacon gnocchi. The ripe plum and dark cherry notes kept the bacon flavor from becoming too much as the tender gnocchi literally melted in your mouth. The Delta Pinot also emphasized the berry and cherry notes in Chef Chris Pandel’s (of The Bristol) hand-ground duck sausage in cherry foie gras mustard sauce.

Chef Kim’s pork tenderloin taco, Chef Rick Gresh’s (of David Burke Primehouse) lamb in cherry beet sauce, and Chef Herring’s duck tenderloin served atop a foie gras-spread crostini were each equally mindblowing when paired with the 2007 Vina Caneiro, Ribeira, Sacra, Spain. Light tannins allowed each dishes’ separate ingredients to shine, but the firm berry structure stood up nicely to the spices, herbs, and seasonings used by each chef.

Because there were no dessert wines or spirits, I had the 2008 Peter Lehman’s “Layers” White Blend with the dessert course. Pinot Gris, Muscat, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc are the grapes in the blend, and I thought the smaller concentrations of Muscat and Gewurtz might have a similar effect on the dessert experience that the varietals do on their own. The pairing was very pleasing with each of the dishes, from a strawberry shortcake-type dessert on a citrus infused biscuit (served by The Bristol) to the buttered croissant bread pudding (served by Socca).

Each restaurant team provided bartenders to mix and serve fresh cocktails using ingredients purchased at the Green City Market. But having tasted each cocktail with each dish, I was pleasantly surprised at just how well our wines shined next to each phenomenol dish.

Our recent post on Scarlett Johansson’s new leading role–as Moët & Chandon’s spokeswoman–got me thinking about the wines that other notable celebrities associate themselves with. Do most wine-loving stars simply choose the obvious greats, like Jack Nicholson and his penchant for Veuve Clicquot? Or do they decide to make their own, like Dave Matthews does in Virginia or Francis Ford Coppola in Alexander Valley, California?

I did a little research to find out.

According to the New York Times, though rapper Jay-Z’s lyrics tend to include Cristal, his taste in wine is somewhat broader. “”I’m not championing a specific brand,” he told the Times. ”I’m experimenting with a lot of rosés now. I’ve always loved Dom P. rosé, but Krug rosé is also excellent right now.”

Johnny Depp’s taste in wine is decidedly more specific: he cites “Château Calon-Ségur, a Saint-Estèphe third-growth” as his favorite.

Depp’s “Pirates of the Caribbean” co-star Keira Knightley isn’t brand specific, but in 2006, she informed Elle Magazine: “I haven’t been to the gym since January and I’m drinking about half a bottle of wine a night.”

Our third president Thomas Jefferson made his loyalty to French wine widely known, stating that “Wine is a daily necessity for me” and saying of Bordeaux’s Chateau d’Yquem wine, “This is the best white wine of France and the best of it is made by Monsieur de Lur-Saluces.” And while Richard Nixon’s favorite food was reportedly (and repulsively) cottage cheese and ketchup, his taste in wine was decidedly more classy: he adored Château Margaux.

Our current president Barack Obama keeps his wine preferences more discreet, though he and Michelle do have a 1,000-bottle cellar in their Hyde Park, Chicago home. On a recent trip to France with her husband, Michelle made headlines in wine and food publications the world over by enjoying a 2005 Hugel “Tradition” Pinot Gris over dinner avec French First Lady Carla Bruni. As far as her husband is concerned, rumors swirl that President Obama’s preferences lie with everything from Kendall Jackson Chardonnay to South African Graham Beck Brut, which he allegedly toasted with on Election Night (perhaps in honor of Nelson Mandela, who toasted his own election in 1994 with Graham Beck Brut).

Mike Ditka, Sting, Nancy Pelosi and Jeff Gordon are among notable names who own their own wine labels or vineyards. One is left to wonder if celebrities drink one another’s brands? Does Olivia Newton-John compare her Aussie “Koala Blue” label to Sam Neill’s New Zealand product? Does “Sopranos” star Lorraine Bracco pit her Italian wines against Bob Dylan’s? Does Coppola’s nephew Nicholas Cage swear by the family brand? Or better yet, does Coppola’s daughter Sofia Coppola celebrate special occasions with the “Sofia” sparkling wine her father named for her?

Regardless, one things for sure. Of all wine-loving celebrities, Johnny Depp’s the only one we know to have it literally tattooed on his body: he had his inked tribute to former girlfriend Winona Ryder changed from “Winona forever” to “Wino forever.”

by Brett Ashley McKenzie

I was so overwhelmed by the spectacular new summer wines we received at Just Grapes while I was away on my honeymoon that I’m only just now getting around to trying (and LOVING) all of our fantastic new beers.

Whether you crave a no-frills, no-fuss Pale Ale like the North Coast Red Seal Ale or an exotic Belgian-style brew like the Japanese Hitachino White Ale, your summer beer is here at Just Grapes.

The North Coast Red Seal Ale was a big winner for my husband and I. Being big fans of simple, excellent beers, we were won over quickly by the label, which proudly boasts: “water, malted barley, hops, yeast… and that’s it.” It was perfectly balanced, with distinctive hops–enough to stand out but not completely overwhelm the freshness. Brewed by North Coast Brewing Co. (the same people who bring you Scrimshaw Pilsner-style beer and Blue Star wheat beer), Red Seal has already received a smattering of accolades from the World Beer Championships and Beverage Testing Institute.

On your next trip to Just Grapes, head to the cold box and peruse our summer brews. We just may become your one-stop shop for all of your wine & beer needs.

By Brett Ashley McKenzie

Earlier this week, I returned home from my Hawaiian honeymoon (more on the amazing food and wine we enjoyed later) to find the June 30th issue of Wine Spectator crammed into my mailbox. Immediately following a depressing story on how the Vegas restaurant industry is suffering in the wake of the global economic crisis, I was surprised to read this item in the “newsmakers” section:

“Champagne house Moët & Chandon announced in April that Scarlett Johansson will be a brand ambassador.”

I re-read this a few times with an eyebrow raised. According to WS, “steamy ads” of the sultry Hollywood starlet will run exclusively in Europe (sorry, men of the United States).

One of Scarlett Johannsson's European Moet & Chandon ads.

This bugs me for two reasons.

First, absolutely nothing against Scarlett Johansson, but there are a plethora of beautiful French actresses who would seem a more logical fit for such a genuinely French product. Perhaps someone like Eva Green, just one of a number of French-born Bond girls. In “Casino Royale,” she radiated sophistication and beauty–and, according to the four guys I saw the film with–sex appeal. Or even Angelina Jolie, who actually is part French… but perhaps she’s too busy being a U.N. Goodwill Ambassador to worry about something as insignificant as shooting sexy commercials for Champagne.

Second–and I say this just two days back from my honeymoon, where every room we stayed in was stocked with complimentary bubbly–Champagne is sexy enough on its own.

Champagne doesn’t need a screen siren brand ambassador to sell its sex appeal. Everything about Champagne, from the bottle to the bubbles to the little light-headed feeling some of us get after a second glass to the temperature it’s served at, is sexy. That’s why it’s the beverage of choice for honeymooners, anniversary celebrators, and of course, the undeniably romantic French.

Champagne is so exclusive that the word itself is trademarked and protected, and hell hath no fury like Champagne’s winemakers when they learn that another region’s bubbly is being bottled under their name or methode. So why is the world’s largest Champagne house borrowing a Hollywood film star as its spokesperson? It’s not even original; she’s done commercials for Calvin Klein (as American as it gets) and L’Oreal (another French label), among others.

Perhaps I’m overreacting. But as far as I’m concerned, the best Champagne sells itself.

by Brett Ashley McKenzie

Maya: You know, can I ask you a personal question, Miles?
Miles Raymond: Sure.
Maya: Why are you so in to Pinot? I mean, it’s like a thing with you.
Miles Raymond: Uh, I don’t know. Um, it’s a hard grape to grow, as you know. Right? It’s uh, it’s thin-skinned, temperamental, ripens early. It’s, you know, it’s not a survivor like Cabernet, which can just grow anywhere and uh, thrive even when it’s neglected. No, Pinot needs constant care and attention. You know? And in fact it can only grow in these really specific, little, tucked away corners of the world. And, and only the most patient and nurturing of growers can do it, really. Only somebody who really takes the time to understand Pinot’s potential can then coax it into its fullest expression. Then, I mean, oh its flavors, they’re just the most haunting and brilliant and thrilling and subtle and… ancient on the planet.

This exchange from the film “Sideways” is in no small part responsible for an overwhelming increase of interest in the Pinot Noir varietal, and an increase in its demand everywhere from five-star restaurants to right here in our store. Miles isn’t alone with his effusive praise of this difficult, dark grape. Robert Parker once wrote, “When it’s great, Pinot noir produces the most complex, hedonistic, and remarkably thrilling red wine in the world.” One master sommelier even calls Pinot “sex in a glass.”

Miles may be a Pinot Snob, but he gets it right.

What is it about Pinot Noir? The often deceptive light hues, disguising surprising flavors and strength? The low tannins, which even white wine fanatics can appreciate? The smooth and silky texture?

Just Grapes’ managing partner Don Sritong often recalls his amazement in learning that Pinot Noir had become the most popular wine sold in the store. “If you told me that when we opened five years ago, I wouldn’t have believed you,” he said in a recent in-store class. Yet our customers flock to our Pinots, new world and old world (and both, in the unique Two Worlds collaboration between Dr. Loosen and J. Christopher, which features 90% German grapes and 10% Oregonian). In private events, Pinots are the wines that are requested to be tasted again and again and again. Whether watching the face of someone trying the varietal for the first time or a connoisseur surprised by a burst of something unexpected, you see the same range of emotions and pleasure and curiosity. It’s simply mesmerizing.

What about Pinot Noir attracts or surprises you?

The Just Grapes 2008 & 2009 Barrel Project members all met last night at the Grocery Bistro for a blind tasting of 10 Premium Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignons.  The Pritchard Hill area of Napa Valley is known for cult Cabernet producers  such as Colgin, Bryant Family and Chappellet. All wines were tasted in a blind format (identity of each wines were hidden) served in two different flights.  Each member was asked to vote for their top wine in each of the flights.  Here are the results based on overall votes (ranked from top to bottom) and their suggested retail prices*.  The order in which the wines were tasted will be in “()”.  You can click each wine for detailed tasting notes.

1. 2004 Paul Hobbs Stagecoach (#7 overall or #1 flight 2) - $175
   
2. 2005 Girard “Estate Bottled”  (#5 overall flight 1) - $75
3. 2006 David Arthur Elevation 1147 (#9 overall or #3 flight 2) - $135
4. 2006 Chappellet Pritchard Hill Estate (#10 overall or #4 flight 2) - $135
5. 2006 Chappellet Signature (#4 overall flight 1) - $42
6. 2005 Paul Hobbs Stagecoach (#8 overall or #2 flight 2) - $175
7. 2005 Levendi Stagecoach(#6 overall flight 1) - $70
8. 2004 Girard “Sam’s Cuvee”  (#2 overall flight 1) - $40
9. 2000 Chappellet Pritchard Hill Estate (#3 overall flight 1) - $80
10. 2003 Cloud View Estate Red Wine  (#1 overall flight 1) - $65

The results of this tasting reveal many things about the palates of the members that will assist us in our red wine plan for the 2009 Cabernet Barrel Project.  The top 3 wines had many things in common.  The overall winner came from the Stagecoach Vineyard which is the source of fruit for the 2009 Cabernet Barrel Project.  They all came from volcanic soils planted at 1000+ feet elevation which creates small concentrated grapes with thick skins resulting in big bold age worthy tannins and graceful acidity.  They all used native yeast fermentation for added complexity and sense of place.  They were all put through a cold soak and extended maceration in order to extract additional color, concentration, flavor and intensity.  They were aged 21+ months in French Oak (mostly new) to add richness in flavor and texture.  All 3 top wines were also bottled unfined and unfiltered to retain its core concentration of flavor purity.

The Just Grapes Barrel Project was put together to allow its members the opportunity to experience winemaking from grape to bottle without having to purchase their own winery.  This evening was a chance for the new members of the 2009 Barrel Projects (Stagecoach Cabernet Group & La Encantada Pinot Noir Group) to meet the alumnus of the 2008 Trailside Cabernet Barrel Project to share their past experiences and the exciting things to come.   Each group meets once a month at a local restaurant to taste wine with food and discuss and determine the various components of winemaking.  We still have a few seats left in both the La Encantada Pinot Noir Project & Stagecoach Cabernet Sauvignon Project.  Click here to learn more.

*The overall statistical accuracy of these rankings is thrown by the votes taken for 2 flights and only allowing for their top choice.   #3 & #4tied for 3rd Place, #2, #6 & #8 tied for 5th Place, #1 & #3 tied for 9th Place

Many Just Grapes customers are environmentally conscious. Several regulars reuse our two-, three-, four- and six-pack carriers, bringing them back whenever they return to shop in the store. Others routinely check JustGrapes.net to see which new organic & biodynamic wines we carry.

As many of you know, we’re in the midst of the biggest sale event in store history: 50% off 50 very special wines, and 20% off the rest of our entire inventory, through Saturday, April 25. These are some of the lowest prices in the country… and they extend to our organic and biodynamic wines & spirits as well!

From our food-friendly 2005 Bonny Doon Ca Del Solo Californian Sangiovese to the spring-perfect 2005 Chorey Pernand Vergelesses Les Combottes, and even our Square One Cucumber Vodka–the perfect way to take any cocktail from ho-hum to refreshing–we have dozens of organic and biodynamic options for your Earth Day observance.

The 2007 Familia Zuccardi Vida Organica Sparkling and the Merieau, Bulles, NV, Cremant de Loire are fabulous organic bubblys that will make any Earth Day celebration complete.

Take a walk on our organic side, before this unbeatable sale ends!

Yesterday, we began receiving stock for our Spring Blowout Sale: 50% on 50 Wines. As we opened box after box of incredible wine after incredible wine, I couldn’t believe my eyes. Three different 1.5 liter-bottles of Herman Donnhoff Riesling , each rated between 93 and 97 points by Robert Parker, marked down from $90, $79, and $75 to less than $50 each. A celebrated 2002 Celler Vall Llach Idus Blend Priorat SP for $18.50. A decadent Lanson Rose Brut from Champagne for $26. A $9 Oregonian Pinot Gris, THREE kinds of Gruner Vetliner, two Chateauneuf de Pape red blends, plenty of Rioja, Syrah, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Nebbiola… you have to see this line-up.

With the quality and variety we’re offering, it’s hard to believe these are the lowest prices in the country on these amazing wines, but they are. And if you think you can wait until Friday (April 25), the last day of the sale, to make your trip to Just Grapes, I urge you to reconsider! The sale starts Monday, April 20, and plenty of customers have informed us that they plan to get there early to stock up on these values.

Whether you’re in the market for a new buttery Chard (the 2006 Arboleda Chardonnay from Chile is only $6 during the sale!!!) or a highly-rated Pinot Noir (the 2005 Benton Lane First Class Pinot Noir from Oregon is $17.50), we’ve got deals that you don’t want to miss. Plan a trip in early next week, because these wines won’t be around for long!

What do you think of our sale selection?

At a wine bar on the North Side a while ago, I decided to try something different. I reviewed the specials, marveled at the value of a particular $6-a-glass New World red (everything else was priced at around $12 a glass), and placed my order with the bartender.

“South Africa?” My friend raised an eyebrow on the stool beside me. “And what’s a Pinotage?” The bartender set the drink in front of me.

“A grape,” I replied, swirling the ruby red glass of 2007 Bon Cap Pinotage, Robertson, South Africa before taking a big whiff. Pleased by the aromas of ripe plum and hints of espresso, I took my first sip… and fell in love. Figs, bacon, and a funky (in a good way) earthiness that I’ve come to associate with South African reds.

When I started at Just Grapes in February, I was so happy to learn that we carry the Pinotage that won my heart for South Africa. I also learned that Bon Cap is an organic wine, and at $17.49 a bottle, an even better bargain than I thought. I regularly take a bottle home with me. I’ve enjoyed it with ribs. I’ve enjoyed it with sweet, stinky cheeses. I’ve enjoyed it with friends. I’ve hogged it for myself. Last week, I made it my in-store staff pick.

Many Just Grapes customers have tried (and loved) our 2006 Excelsior Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, another South African red that no one can believe is only $9.99 a bottle. In this Cab, there are notes of tobacco, hemp, and that same deliciously funky quality that  I love in the Pinotage. Our wine buyer Maggie described it best: “A lot of South African Cabernets have this earthy funkiness to it that tastes like the old world and the new world came together and had a party.”

So why are these funky reds “a perfect fit for spring and summer,” as the title suggests? After all, wine drinkers tend to slowly gravitate towards roses and whites as the weather warms and the sweaters go into storage.

Here’s why: I dare you to find a better BBQ wine.

Really. Try. Bring the Bon Cap Pinotage to the next (or first) BBQ you’re invited to this year. Have it with anduoille sausage, or steak and bell pepper kabobs, a cheeseburger, or my personal favorite, ribs (or for vegetarians out there, try it with Gardenburger’s meatless riblets) . Try it against every other red you’ve ever thought would make a great BBQ wine. The smokiness in the Bon Cap and the smokiness in the meat and the pleasant weather will mingle in your mouth and have you dancing on down to Funkytown… or at least dancing on down to Just Grapes to buy another bottle.

South African whites are also rising in popularity, and with The Wall Street Journal naming our 2008 Ken Forrester Petit Chenin, Stellenbosch, a 2008 Best Bargain, it’s nearly impossible to keep our bottles from flying off the shelf. South Africa has taken the Loire varietal Chenin Blanc and put a New World spin on it. South African Chenin Blancs are crisp, clean, and citrusy as a result of the climate. For $10.99 a bottle, I can’t get enough of the Ken Forrester. To me, this is how a white wine should taste in the spring or summer time. We have two other fantastic South African Chenin Blancs in the store: the 2008 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc and the 2008 Man Chenin Blanc. All three present citrus and tropical fruit flavors ( the Ken Forrester has lovely green apple notes as well), clean drinkability, and exceptional value.

South African Chenin Blancs are perfect for sipping on the back porch as the sun sets or with a spring salad at a BYOB al fresco bistro. And year-round, they’re perfect with Thai food, sushi, white fish, and South American seafood and poultry dishes.

So go on, give South African wines a try. They won’t be a best-kept-secret for very long, and we should all enjoy these spectacular values before it’s too late!