Mar 02 2009
Merlot Even Miles Wouldn’t Malign
By Brett Ashley McKenzie
Jack: If they want to drink Merlot, we’re drinking Merlot.
Miles: No, if anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving.
Ah, Miles. The visceral hatred of Merlot espoused by the neurotic protagonist in “Sideways” effectively poisoned the public against the medium-bodied red wine, without the film giving a concrete explanation as to why. In 2005, following the movie’s critical acclaim, sales of Merlot in the U.S. dropped and sales of Miles’ beloved Pinot Noir shot up.
Perhaps Miles detested the perceived ease associated with growing Merlot, the impression that it can grow just about anywhere, from France to California to Canada to Slovenia to Long Island. Perhaps he viewed its propensity for being blended as a weakness.
Or perhaps Miles simply wrote off Merlot before he found a true contender.
At a private event at Just Grapes last Wednesday, we poured the 2005 Santa Ema Reserve Merlot, Maipo, Chile as the first of three reds. You could see the skepticism in the eyes of some of the tasters. One man covered his glass and said simply, “Let me know when we get to the Cabernet.”
But those who tasted the Santa Ema Merlot were treated to a rarity: 100% Merlot. Merlot is often blended, so pure, unblended Merlot was something that few (if any) in the room had tasted. Those who gave it a chance were pleasantly surprised. Notes of chocolate, coffee, plum and blackberry interwoven with toffee.
“I don’t get why he didn’t like it,” I overheard one person tell another.
“Who?” asked the second gentleman.
“The guy in ‘Sideways’ just hated Merlot.” He nodded toward his glass. “This is actually really nice.”
Perhaps it is because Miles sees himself as a difficult, complex man surrounded by simpler beings, like his best friend Jack. Perhaps it is because Merlots are so often described as soft and delicate, and Miles’ personality is anything but. However those terms “soft” and “delicate” could be accurately used to characterize Maya, the woman he falls so effortlessly in love with. If given the chance, and the proper Merlot, perhaps Miles could change his mind.
Have you given yourself the chance to fall for Merlot?
The upshot is that Miles’ bordeaux that he was saving was from the Right Bank, traditionally a Merlot based wine.
Rob,
You are indeed correct: The ’61 Cheval Blanc Bordeaux that Miles saves throughout the film is a Cab Franc/Merlot blend. Perhaps Miles’ main beef is with Merlot of the California variety?
I enjoye Merlots. In particular, I find those from Washingston State (such as Walla Walla Valley) to be enjoyable medium to slightly heavy bodied reds.
I would have to say that I have not given myself a chance to fall for Merlot. I did not realize that Merlot is often a blended wine and more then likely I have never tried a glass of 100% Merlot.
I have to admit that Miles’ detest for Merlot steered me away from Merlots for the past few years (subconciously it seems). Oddly enough, I had just decided a few weeks ago to explore the world of Merlot as I had a fantastic one just the other day. Funny how movies can have such a large impact on the public – and apparently me. Thanks for the article, I enjoyed it.
I also didn’t realize that most Merlots are blended. Perhaps I should give Merlot a second chance?
I have enjoyed Frog’s Leap Merlot in the past. Big and Jammy.
I started drinking wine on a regular basis cause of merlots. I like california and argentina marlots.
I’ve been drinking Merlot for some time. I enjoy full-bodied Merlot’s. My favorite is one that I recently tasted at Just Grapes – Makor Merlot.
While not typically my first choice (and nothing to do with Miles) I do enjoy a good Merlot. For US Merlot I like Robert Sinskey. It is typically fairly big, slightly fruit forward with nice dark red fruit, structure and a medium to long finish.
I agree with Brett, inasmuch as I find most California Merlots slightly disappointing… vapid, hollow, flat, or otherwise uninteresting. My faves seem to come from Washington: Columbia Crest (Grand Estates or Reserves) on the bargain side, Spring Valley, Bookwalter, and Andrew Will with higher tickets.
I have tried some Merlots, but have not really “fallen” for it. But I will continue to try them
)
Ah yes, the beautiful merlot. I truly enjoy this grape. If you have not tasted the merlot from Duckhorn, or that from Plumpjack I highly recommend it!
Not a big fan of CA merlot (or much of anything coming out of CA these days). However, a good French merlot, say, Les Gravieres St. Emilion, is another story all together.
Yes, I have tried Merlot – and I will admit I was influenced by Miles in that I started to experiment with other reds after seeing the film. I’m always on the hunt for the perfect red that is not too sweet, nor too peppery. Although I’ve enjoyed reds from pinot to shiraz.
I didn’t think much of Merlot, even before the film. I realize in Bordeaux they are obviously doing great things with them, but I have had almost none of them. My experience has been with US versions. I just feel, with the ones I’ve had – including at a wine and dinner tasting recently – that, to paraphrase Gertrude Stein, “there is no there there’. In other words, I find them flat and without personality. I’m not a fruit bomb kind of guy either. I adore the subtlety of Burgundy. It just seems like Merlot always starts promising on the front but has little to follow it up with.
Wine seems to always have its fashion sense. Before Merlot, Cabernet was the only wine that was in fashion. For white, Chardonnay. Then Merlot was “introduced” as a softer, easier to drink version of Cabernet. Then Syrah was the rage. Now Pinot Noir. I think a lot of these popularity contests come from two problems. One, wine has become a cocktail fro some folks. If wine is just a cocktail, you can drink it anytime you want a drink. But when wine is considered a foodstuff, it makes sense to choose the wine more carefully because you know that wines are like colors. And not every color combination is good. And that leads to the second problem – the idea that there’s a single silver bullet. No ONE wine will cover all facets of drinking and dining. Enjoy the diversity. So to dismiss an entire grape variety is tough. I suppose if you don’t like it, you don’t like it. But to NOT like it because its not the same as another is crazy. But I do appreciate what those folks do for me. Because of these little fashion trends, my Loire and Southern French reds are all that much more affordable.
Duckhorn, 2003 I think? The most interesting, complex Merlot I’ve had.
I like merlot, but prefer Big zins. My most recent favorite merlot was a 2004 Benzinger.
DUCKHORN- cannot remember the year, but it has always been a memorable wine…. need to save some money and get it more often!
I actually don’t mind Merlot. I am a huge fan of Cabernet, but occasionally I enjoy a nice Merlot. I had an amazing one from California wine country, that I can’t recall, but if I ever go back, I’ll be sure to get the name of it.
Call me Miles! Merlot is so blase. I can’t order it, buy it. I much prefer a hearty Cab – Ray’s Station is a steal at around $15!
This is such a cool blog? wow!